Been a while since I've onsited a 12b - not counting the stuff at Jackson's Canyon of course. You know - I don't think I've ever onsited 12b at the New River Gorge - infact, I don't know if I've onsited 12a there.....
Friday, November 13, 2009
not a bad day...
we climbed at the PMRP today - which is one of them there new crags - at the Red River Gorge - pretty rad - we warmed up at the playground - then I was really psyched to onsite the route - that like everyone onsites (I had to try pretty hard for it darnit!) - Far From God (12b) - yay go Dan.
Been a while since I've onsited a 12b - not counting the stuff at Jackson's Canyon of course. You know - I don't think I've ever onsited 12b at the New River Gorge - infact, I don't know if I've onsited 12a there.....
Been a while since I've onsited a 12b - not counting the stuff at Jackson's Canyon of course. You know - I don't think I've ever onsited 12b at the New River Gorge - infact, I don't know if I've onsited 12a there.....
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
and a day at the new...
having been creeking for a week - i figured i'd get on all those old intimidating trad routes at the new that I've never been on.
did
Smooth Operator (off-width)
Bio Hazard (crux at the top - sweet)
Diversity in Microcosm (not R and not 5.9 - more like 5.7)
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
so my overview of Moab


Its basically just a bunch of splitter - perfect cracks - with sometimes roofs and features and that sort of thing...
So a lot of times - you need like 8 number 2 BDs...its crazy like that.
Moab itself is a cool little town - mormon, but not giving in without a fight. The downtown library is great - and they have a bunch of cool audio books!
Wall Street - belaying off your bumper - is where good routes go to die...the rock is pretty bad...like its cool to climb, its just scary to fall on....
If you're going to the creek - and are not a crack climber, you're gonna need a lot of rest days - my quads and ankles hurt from putting them in cracks...seriously...its like you got down wrestling a bear when you get off a route!
Its crazy - the desert, you just don't feel like you're on earth. You don't believe that something like that exists on the earth....its rad....
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Rest Day - oops...yeah Wall Street
So I was totally on my way to taking another rest day when Phil and Jessica showed up at the Library.
We did Wall-Street - which is like....well - the sport park of moab minus the grid bolting. Its NO JOKE belay off your bumper - really cool though! Good routes, but scary gear placements...its really really soft sandstone.
Managed to bag a new 12a - it was hard though.....
Freaking A - hard boulder problems hrmphhh.....
Back to the creek tomorrow
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