Friday, November 13, 2009

not a bad day...

we climbed at the PMRP today - which is one of them there new crags - at the Red River Gorge - pretty rad - we warmed up at the playground - then I was really psyched to onsite the route - that like everyone onsites (I had to try pretty hard for it darnit!) - Far From God (12b) - yay go Dan.

Been a while since I've onsited a 12b - not counting the stuff at Jackson's Canyon of course. You know - I don't think I've ever onsited 12b at the New River Gorge - infact, I don't know if I've onsited 12a there.....

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Another Creek Shot...

and a day at the new...

having been creeking for a week - i figured i'd get on all those old intimidating trad routes at the new that I've never been on.

did

Smooth Operator (off-width)
Bio Hazard (crux at the top - sweet)
Diversity in Microcosm (not R and not 5.9 - more like 5.7)


Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Wall Street...

so my overview of Moab


Moab is sweet - no other way to say it - the camping is free - in the desert; over aminities (except a sketchy porta potty) - not even water, but you just drive the hour into moab, stock up - and you're set - that's camping at Indian Creek....which is awesome!


Its basically just a bunch of splitter - perfect cracks - with sometimes roofs and features and that sort of thing...

So a lot of times - you need like 8 number 2 BDs...its crazy like that.

Moab itself is a cool little town - mormon, but not giving in without a fight. The downtown library is great - and they have a bunch of cool audio books!


Wall Street - belaying off your bumper - is where good routes go to die...the rock is pretty bad...like its cool to climb, its just scary to fall on....

If you're going to the creek - and are not a crack climber, you're gonna need a lot of rest days - my quads and ankles hurt from putting them in cracks...seriously...its like you got down wrestling a bear when you get off a route!


Its crazy - the desert, you just don't feel like you're on earth. You don't believe that something like that exists on the earth....its rad....



Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Here's a vertical from Two Bag Face...

Rest Day - oops...yeah Wall Street

So I was totally on my way to taking another rest day when Phil and Jessica showed up at the Library.

We did Wall-Street - which is like....well - the sport park of moab minus the grid bolting. Its NO JOKE belay off your bumper - really cool though! Good routes, but scary gear placements...its really really soft sandstone.

Managed to bag a new 12a - it was hard though.....

Freaking A - hard boulder problems hrmphhh.....

Back to the creek tomorrow