Danno's Climbing Adventures

Day 3

2011-03-29T15:47:00.000-07:00

Day 3 at Smith Rock was a good one. I feel like I'm starting to get the feel of things - sending Cool Ranch or something like that (5.11a) which felt easy and sending "Blue Light Special" (5.11b) second go (first go was onsite and the beta was totally jacked, but once I got the beta, it was easy.)

I did a burn up "Liquid Jade" (5.12b). It confirmed my suspicion that 5.12 at smith is easier than 5.11...It was hard of course and I didn't do it, but still...

Day 4 was today and we took a rest day. We decided to go for a big long hike - which ended up going up one side of the mountain, over the other. It was rough dude! I'm hoping to have a good climbing day tomorrow, maybe try "Latest Rage" - which is a life goal of mine. We shall see.

My initial evaluation of Smith Rock is "Come back to this place for 2+ weeks next time.) Its awesome. The towns are nice, the camping is good (though the showers are luke-warm at best.)

Smith Rock

2011-03-29T15:43:00.000-07:00

Smith Rock is totally rad. I’m getting my butt kicked here. But the climbing is totally rad! The hike is sort of rough. You have to walk up this steep hill at the end of the day, but other than the hill at the end, the hike is flat and easy.

We started out by climbing some of the “easier” moderates – mostly routes on the “Morning Glory” wall. We did “9 Gallon Buckets” 5.10c, and then I tried “Cool Ranch Flavor” 5.11a twice and could not do it (though I did it both times off the hang.) I did “Light on the Path” 5.10a as well.

I did a beta burn on “Chain Reaction” 5.12c and realized that I would not be able to do that one and that was the end of our first day.

Day 2 was not a bad day. The weather was varied “again,” but it was mostly good weather, though we did have to wait for about 20 minutes for a rain storm. I did a handful of moderates, once again, on the Morning Glory Wall including: “The Outsiders” 5.9, “Five Gallon Buckets” 5.8, and “Morning Sky” 5.10c. I tried but failed miserably to onsite “Zebra Seam” 5.11d. I fell at the third bolt (first crux), but managed to do all the rest of the moves off the hang first try (I bolt-to-bolted it.) I couldn’t imagine doing that thing on gear!

And that was pretty much day 2. Today is suppose to be the nicest of the days so far – 50 and sunny. We woke up to snow on the tent and on the ground, went into Redmond for breakfast and are now chilling at “Redpoint” Climbers Supply which is totally awesome.

L.R.C aka Stone Fort

2011-01-24T12:44:00.000-08:00

We headed down to Chattanooga this weekend, for a PERRRFECT bouldering weekend!!

Both days, we spent at LRC, though the first day for me was the only productive day of bouldering for me - I did manage to beat the snot out of myself however. The dieting and running have paid off for me - with some good beta, I managed to send "The Wave" (V6) - and when I did it, it actually felt quite easy. I almost blew the top-out, but groveled my way through it.

I did a handful of other problems, mostly repeats, including Mystery Groove (which felt easier than ever), Tri-star and Dragon Lady (all three V4.) I repeated "The Big Much" (V4) which is more like a V2 or V3. Also, I managed to send a project of mine from the last trip - Mother Thrutch (V4), and almost did the Sit-start at V5 - I'm going to try to send this next trip.

I managed to second try the V6 finish to Super Mario, but could not do the V4 crux...this will be a project that I'd like to try fresh next trip - I think that I can do it - assuming that I CAN do the V4 section!! (The extension is about V2 or V3 with the pump from the normal start... - sort of like a route which is a strength for me.)

I put several burn in on "A Face in the Crowd" (V7) which didn't go as well for me, though I may consider projecting that one as well.

Eating well...

2011-01-20T12:22:00.001-08:00

I've been trying hard to both eat well and run....here is today's lunch.

Climb Gym

2011-01-18T04:46:00.000-08:00

Since there was snow on the ground in the deep south, I headed North for a 3 day gym trip including Pittsburgh (Climb North) and Columbus (both gyms there.)

Ohio Gyms...

2011-01-12T03:16:00.000-08:00

Last weekend, there being snow at rocktown, I decided to drive up to Cleveland to hit the rock gym there. Its about the 2nd or 3rd closes gym to me here in WV - though we're getting a gym here in Charleston VERY soon!!!

When I was in High School - probably the mid to late 90s, I did one trip to the Cleveland Rock Gym (CRG) - it was a cool gym, good training walls for bouldering, LOADS of top rope climbing (that doesn't interest me in the least.)

It was pretty much the same rad gym as I remembered it! The place was big enough that all the screaming kids didn't really make a difference (they were mostly in the top roping range while a few brave kids came to play on the big kids wall and were pretty cool.) The problems were quite good, powerful, but varied. Open jigs was nice, which allowed for different styles/approaches to problems (I could just beast my way through some of them mrow!) - They run a good show there. The only weird thing is that they require one to belay with an ATC (after paying my $2, I passed an ATC - using one for the first time..since well...the mid 90s!) All and all, its a very worth gym which I think, was worth the four hour drive for me (assuming that rocktown and HP40 were under snow.)

Sunday, we did Kinetic Gym in Columbus. Kinetic is much smaller, but has that "hometown" feeling. At Kinetic, you're climbing WITH everyone, instead of around them. It has a nice community feel to it. The walls at Kinetic are STEEEEEEP! And what Kinetic really has going for it is all the awesome jugs and holds that are NEW and/or well maintained. Problems are thought out, but powerful (which lends itself to my style of climbing.) The "Mothership", their (in my opinion) premier wall is ?72 degrees, which is about the same as the madness cave at the red (?I think?). Totally an excellent gym!

Note this photo was from a trip about a ?month ago, not this weekend.

Some Rocktown Images...

2011-01-12T03:14:00.001-08:00

Daily Life, Running, Eating

2011-01-12T03:09:00.000-08:00

My Aunt and Uncle got me a George Foreman grill for christmas, so I've been using it every day for lunch, which is a chicken breast (comes frozen) - they're actually quite good, filling and very healthy! I was surprised at how easy it was for me to eat better and healthier with just a single meal (I don't get hungry etc afterwards.)

I started at target of 2200 cal a month, then dropped it to 1800, then to 1400. As I slowly tapered it, I was hoping to hit my "break point" and think that I hit it at 1200 calories on my attempted 10k run yesterday. I just crashed big time at the 8k mark. I knew it was coming ,so I looped back after 4k so I could make it to my car without walking.

I DID run a half marathon last Thursday. I saw on Wiki that people tend to train for 3 months for that. Well....I sorta off the couched it. Ran a three days doing progressive runs (and some multi-run days) - then just did it! I'm hoping to work my way up to a Marathon, maybe in march...we'll see...

Been a while...

2011-01-12T03:04:00.000-08:00

Its been a while since Ive been blogging. I don't know why - maybe I'm just lazy or maybe I'm so burried in my training and work? No its probably that I just fear that I've fallen into another of life's "traps" - you know the whole steady job, working thing? Its really a great deal I have with my job though - working 4 - 10 hour days which gives me a 3 day weekend every weekend!

I've been running my butt off the past couple of weeks and also, have been food planning/keeping track of all my food. My problem has always been my weight. I've NEVER been skinny in my life, but, being able to scrap my way up easy to mid 5.12 has always been "good enough" for me. Well...I think that's not good enough for me any more. Mainly, because I'm running out of routes (good ones) at the easy 5.12 range to do, but more so since I'm getting older here (I'm turning 29 this year.) - I figured I may as well beat the snot out of myself, lose some weight and be a better climber.

I think that, from all the years of being heavy (though muscular) - I probably have pretty strong tendons. If I can go to be a "skinny" guy - I bet that I can crush some small holds! I know that I will likely lose enduro, which has always been my biggest strength...we'll see.

I HAVE NOT been weighing myself, because I don't want to know - honestly, but I have definitely been noticing some serious gains (well loses) looking in the mirror. Like OH WOW I'm getting skinny! My love handles are going the way of the beaver.

I've been traveling a good bit, though unfortunately, to climbing gyms since the weather has been pretty bad this season - even in Chatt, though I've made several Rocktown trips, a LRC trip, a day of climbing at the Obed....

I'll post my run and diet logs. I've been using THIS program - which is quite excellent for tracking one's caloric intake. http://spaz.ca/cronometer/

its free.

A few days at Bishop

2010-11-04T08:21:00.000-07:00

The past few days at BIshop have been pretty good - though i'm kinda getting my butt kicked - and sorta not. I'm repeating just about everything I did last time pretty fast - did "Bowling Pin" at V4 third go. and aparently, the only guidebook said the sit-start was part of the V4 for bowling pin, which I did , but the new guidebook says that holds have broken (though not since I've done it) and its a V6...so I did Bowling Pin (V6) last time - making it my first V6 at Bishop...thought it felt hard for a V4! I found really good beta yesterday, too, for the upper crux on Bowling Pin. I love using holds that have no chalk on them and making it easier for myself. It makes me feel like all those years of climbing and bouldering have paid off in experience.

I did Birthday Skyline (V3) which was a new one for me, and repeated Birthday Direct first go (which took me a bunch of goes last time.) - I also did the Hero Roof (V0) which was a total classic!

I got seriously shut down on the Buttermilk Stem (V2)...its just a really physical move that I cannot do (well maybe I'll be able to do it next time - its totally not-a-climber move to get up into it...) Ryan, being not-a-climber did it fairly quickly (just kidding, it took him a few goes.)

I did a couple burns on High Plains Drifter (V7), but got shut down pretty hard.

We did the Happys two days ago - I managed to do Solarium first try (I love that one) but still got shut down on Serengeti. Darnit! I put three burns into "Cue Ball" (V4) as well - a problem I had meant to try my last trip but didn't; that one is at the top of my list now. I like the problem; its hard for me, has long moves between mostly good holds, but with intricate heel-hooks...the crux is a long move off a bad right hand sloper (good feet) to some intermediates, then a jug. I did the move from the stand-start....just a power move off slopers (yummy)

Last night, we frequented the neighboring campsite where the Canadian and Australian girls cooked us a meal fresh from the dumpster at Vons (I'm not kidding)

Today is ANOTHER rest day...that will make two on the trip so far....rest days are so freaking boring.

Day 3...Bishop...

2010-10-31T18:16:00.000-07:00

Day 3:
We had a really good excuse for flailing today – it was day 3 in a row on. Well…we did sort of take it easy the past two days – but well…that’s a good excuse right? Ryan and Hiked up to the Happys this morning. Ryan was ------ this close to flashing solarium, but he got it second go casually. We did “Heavenly Path” – a really scary, but good high ball V1.

We screwed around with and both sent this cool V4 arête, to the right of the Hulk. We both meant to put some project burns in on the Hulk – but were both feeling pretty tanked after a combined Roid Rage on Serengeti. We were both extremely close to sending like 30 times…but so close…so far.

When we got to the parking lot, my brakes finally gave out. I had purchased a set of wrenches, however, the critical tool that I needed – a C-clamp was not to be found. We asked nicely and so other boulderers drove into town and bought us one and we got it done in like five minutes!

We meeting Nancy tomorrow early at the Buttermilks where she is hoping to send her V8 project. Man – that girl got strong!

Day 1 and 2 of my Bishop Trip

2010-10-31T09:40:00.001-07:00

Day 1: 

After closing on my house, (9am – 9:50am,) I picked up Ryan and we hit the road. We drove for 25.5 hours, from Charleston WV, to Rifle, Colorado. (1540 miles) – It was pretty rough – and let me tell you – Kansas is the WORST state to drive across…the only thing worse is the first half of Colorado which is just as bad.

So one major bummer – I left my entire toiletry bag at home. Thankfully, I stashed some extra contacts and bought the rest…

Today we climbed at Rifle. W were literally FOJJ….step out of the car and fall of “Feline” (11a). I managed to do the route second try, but I finally understand what the “Rifle” thing is…you spend so much time trying to figure out all the moves that you pump out on the crux which is the last move….well at least that’s what happened 3 goes on this 11c “GET NAME” – I was really close on it though…seriously. really close.

“All the rock in Denver is choss” – James Glover.

My verdict on Rifle. This place is rad and I want to come back for sure – spending maybe a week or two next summer here. The climbing and movement is quite unique; the holds, yes are polished, but the feet stick better than I thought they would…the crag to car to crag is amazingly short.

After a short lay-over-night in Rifle, Ryan and I are heading to Indian Creek.

I’m having a little bit of brake trouble…well a lot – the front left brake makes this nasty grinding sound every time I drive less than 40mph…

Day 2:

After Rifle, we were planning on going to the creek, but ended up just pushing it to Bishop! I’m definitely getting a little irritable at Ryan’s expense, but I’m trying really hard to think about how bad my brake grinding is getting. I need to get those brakes changed today or tomorrow – or soon. My Rotor is getting pretty grooved…

Ryan was a freaking trooper last night – he did MOST of the 10 hour drive from Joe’s Valley to Bishop…while I lay in the passenger seat in a somewhat half conscious stupor (listening to an Audio book – Ender’s Game) – I missed several big parts, so I’m pretty sure that I passed out.

Joe’s Valley was rad and definitely gets a check mark for “Come back to visit this place”

We went to “Area 51” at New Joe’s; we were taking it easy –

We did a handful of easy problems – though some of them weren’t that easy! The climbing felt similar to Red Rocks a little bit – no where near the type of Sandstone climbing we get in the East – which is MUCH grittier. It was, in-fact, closer to limestone than to the sandstone that I’m used to.

We ended up getting chased out by a nasty rain storm. I was working this V6 Dyno problem – coming CLOSE to the hold, but maybe an inch below it. It was cool for me because it was such a long move – that I really had to focus my brain into pushing and pulling as hard as I could at the exact right time…I watched a couple other guys do it; They were hitting it, but coming off…So I don’t think I was really close to sticking it…definitely a fun one though!

We ran into a group and shot some photos of them – it was great watching some peeps crushing hard problems.

So I think we’re doing the Happy’s today – its COLD (and perfect) here in Bishop.

Gearing up for a big trip...

2010-10-20T07:03:00.000-07:00

I have about a week before I leave on my trip - about 18 or 19 days away from home. The major destination is Bishop, CA, but with stops at Indian Creek, Rifle, and in Boulder (Clear Creek Canyon?)

I am leaving either Wednesday night or Thursday morning (27th or 28th of October.)

I will be blogging daily on my trip with photos.

The biggest drive will be the first - from Charleston, WV to Denver or Rifle, Co - about 22 hours or 26 hours depending - not including stops. I'm hoping to get a day in at Rifle, but am not really counting on it; We (Ryan Smith and I) will most likely be stopping for at least a day at Indian Creek - maybe a couple depending on how much Ryan likes it.

Likewise, Joe's Valley is a probably - either coming or going or both stop for a day or two.

What I am really looking forward is Bishop though - and have a handful of projects/goals for the trip. I'm not really in great shape, but decent...I've been in better, but I'd like to try and project the following problems at Bishop

1. High Plains Drifter (V7)

2. The Hulk (V6)

3. Strength in Numbers (V5)

4. Seven Spanish Angels (V6)

Coopers Rock..

2010-10-18T07:32:00.001-07:00

Friday, Andy and I walked out to "Two Big Rocks" at Coopers Rock - a sport climbing area...we managed to find it first try and were psyched!

Then, I got this crazy idea - that I wanted to try and repeat the old classic "Pump It Out" 5.11d R - which was put up by Cal Swoager in the late 80s? or early 90s?. We were not sure on the "R" rating until Mike Paugh try the route as well - fell at the crux and ripped both pieces of gear, hitting the ground. The gear was placed well, but the crack shattered (and trashing my cam.)

Thankfully, we had a handful of crash pads - that coupled with the gear ripping slowed him down enough that he didn't get seriously injured.

I'm really glad I didn't fall...and don't know if I would lead the route again - though I may consider bouldering it - since its only about 30 feet tall...of course the crux is the last move...

A harrowing trip...

2010-09-29T12:02:00.000-07:00

--Steve Lovelace on Lock-Smith (V3) at Grayson
Its been a while since I've posted - I've been keeping on the DL the route development which we have been doing at the Meadow - mainly because a lot of my projects got snaked at the "Feed Lot" which we developed this Spring.

This fall - I've slowed down - drill maybe about 20 some routes...but this post isn't about the New.

I had a pretty rough (in a good way) weekend - lots of driving - and climbing - and hiking - HIKING - I hate hiking...truly.

Friday, I did Grayson Highlands State Park - where I met some rad locals - did a bunch of boulder problems - that place is cool - check it out!

Saturday - I climbed at the new at Summersville lake - and unfortunately, I took a really ugly lead fall and I think fractured or badly bruised my heel.--Raina doesn't think that 8 miles is a long hike (at 3 months old)
I promised Matt, though, that Sunday, I would check out this "new" crag with him - from Google Earth, we could see this 200? foot tall limestone pillar. It is near Seneca Rocks, but the unfortunately fact is that its OUT IN THE MIDDLE of no-where....so (on my fractured heel), we hiked about 8 miles (lots of up-hill and stream crossings) to check out this pillar...the most obviously appealing line was the front face of this giant pillar.

--Another heinous hill on the way in...

So we hiked around the top (the climb being quite crappy.) - well...The top of the formation was narrow and extremely loose. So we decided to rope up and traverse the skyline, placing bolts as we went.

--Matt and Katherine at a stream crossing

It ended up being a major epic. Neither of us fell, but it took quite a while - and we ended up wasting 10 bolts (and the battery to drill them) in 3 150? foot traverse pitches. At one point, I realized that if I fell, I was a dead man...or at least would have hoped to be - no good rock to anchor...just as I grabbed a block the size of a refrigerator - and it teetered. I managed to keep my balance and push the block off the otherway - it was really really scary though....--The gorgeous river.
Finally, when we reach the front face (there was some spectacular trundling involved!), we drilled an anchor and rapped the face. I got about 5 bolts into it when the driving rain and dead batteries ended the day (we had more batteries at the base, but screw it right!) - well, we left the rope hanging - the route is going to be about 160 or 170 feet with intermediate rap stations.

--All chossy limestone looks good up close.

its pretty spectacular.

--After a couple stream crossings, its lunch time.

This weekend, I'm shooting some photos for a friend in Pittsburgh and hopefully doing some bouldering up there...not sure about the weather and the whethers....

P90x...

2010-07-27T04:27:00.000-07:00

So I officially started my P90x workout Sunday evening - I climbed Sunday, but not really enough - so I did Arms and Chest...I'm glad that I pregamed last week - I didn't TOTALLY suck with that workout.

The plyometrics workout was the one that I was the most worried about (last night) - but It went MUCH better than it did the previous week as well - I was pretty excited that I only had to pause it once (or maybe twice I don't remember) - The abs workout wasn't so bad either - I had to pause it a few times and I couldn't do all the workouts to the max reps, but it went much better than the previous day.

P90x Workout

As with the energy it takes to workout and lose weight, I've greatly improved my dietary efforts as well. I had 3 eggs for breakfast this morning, and a slice of Pies and Pints Pizza. I bought a bunch of fruit at the store for lunch (and probably finish off the Pies and Pints Pizza) - Dinner will be a salad at Panera.

Tonight's P90x is going to be Shoulders and Arms.

So - Those of you that know me - know this - but its funny because I'm a pretty crappy climber for one who does it with his life...I've sent one V7 - and it was a while ago - and have only RPed a handful of 12ds....I'm really hoping that this workout will push me into being more solid on 12+ and maybe - just maybe I'll send my first 5.13a this fall? I sure hope so.

I'm planning a two week trip the first two weeks of November - I'm thinking about driving out to Bishop, with a stop at Joe's Valley on the way there and back (its like an hour and a bit out of the way!)

My P90x workout will take me to about two weeks before that. Also, I'm getting a hangboard in the mail here soon and am hoping to add a weekly hangboard workout to my P90x routine.

so yeah - life is hard (not) - I've been going to sleep at 830 - so I can wake up at 530 - to go to work - then I come home, train and then sleep....(I only work four days a week though.)

I'll keep updating on my P90x and if/how its improving my climbing.

P90x...

2010-07-22T14:36:00.000-07:00

So I've decided to try the P90x workout - It was suggested to me by Ray Ellington (he's a beast) and I figured it would be good for me to do some general fitness stuff. It will certainly cut into my climbing performance; its a 7 day program and I'm going to cram it into 5 days (Day 6 is Yoga and Day 7 is stretching - gonna skip stretching and put Yoga)

I'm officially starting next week - though I'm going to do some of the workouts this week just to get some of them down.

Yesterday - I did the "Chest and Back" + ABs. - I did one cycle through Chest and Back (it does each twice) - then did abs...and it just crushed me...it was awesome - Tonight is Plyometrics....to quote my facebook post "I've always wondered what it would be like to wake up hours later in a pool of my own blood" - since plyometrics is the "art of leaping"...Its a 3 month schedule and I modded it to get it into five days...

I also did a bitch of switching around so Friday's are "light"

Week 1-3:
1. Monday – Chest and Back/Abs
2. Tuesday - Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Shoulders and Arms/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday - Kenpo and Yoga
Week 4:
1. Monday – Yoga
2. Tuesday – Core
3. Wednesday – Kenpo
4. Thursday – Core
5. Friday – Yoga
Week 5-7:
1. Monday – Chest, Shoulders and Triceps/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Back and Biceps/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga
Week 8:
1. Monday – Yoga
2. Tuesday – Core
3. Wednesday – Kenpo
4. Thursday – Core
5. Friday – Yoga
Week 9:
1. Monday – Chest and Back/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Shoulders and Arms/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga
Week 10:
1. Monday – Chest, Shoulders and Triceps/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Back and Biceps/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga

Week 11:
1. Monday – Chest and Back/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Shoulders and Arms/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga
Week 12:
1. Monday – Chest, Shoulders and Triceps/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Back and Biceps/ Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga

and that's all folks.....

2010-07-17T05:31:00.000-07:00

Day 3: Continued
The hike out to the boulders – for once – wasn’t a horror show…and the boulders were quite cool. We met up with a couple dudes that have been helping to establish and keep the place open – they were really cool and I shot a bunch of photos of them and their female counterparts.
We’re talking about maybe checking out the “TV-Tower” crag tomorrow – with the major draw being the short(er?) approach. I sure hope it’s a short approach.
The interesting part about “the Dump” is that is a really sensitive ecological area. The Ontario group (OAC) was pretty key in negotiating the opening of the boulders, but you have to be really careful to not trample/mess with the flora – especially this special “Daisy.”

Day 4:
The bugs were really bad last night – I basically said – ok sorry dude, but screw this I’m going to bed (despite napping twice and the fact that I wasn’t tired) - I just couldn’t stand the swarm of mosquitoes…A few made it into my tent, though I didn’t wake up with any painful bites – I do remember swatting at a few that were buzzing around my head.
On a road trip – I think that rest days are the most difficult thing...more so making the decision that we need a rest day. We need a rest day today…but screw it – we’re going climbing. We’ll definitely need a rest day tomorrow – for sure...I think we’re talking about checking out this white sands beach or something...
I’m not sure where we’re going to today yet, though we may check out the “TV Tower” crag since it supposedly has a short approach (God I wish!!!)
This trip is really nice – It feels like I’m climbing full time again – I’ve been gone away from work long enough that I don’t really think of that as my “life” – not that I really do much anyways – having a 3 day weekend every weekend.

-----Day 4: Part 2-------
Today has definitely been the most humid day – we drove out to the T.V. Tower crag (funny enough the one guidebook lists it, but doesn’t even give directions to it – how lame right?) – well it was a total poison ivy fest/chosspile….well maybe the one route there looked good – but we said screw it – not worth it….well maybe…but not really…We ended up just taking a rest day….
I think we’re gonna climb at Lion’s Head tomorrow…

Day 5:
Totally got my butt kicked – its sad for me to admit, but I’m not climbing 5.12a anymore ☹. I really need to whip myself into shape – I put 3 more goes into “Busted at Bedford”, but was unable to do it…the third go I made it all the way to the anchors and was just too scared to risk the forty foot whipper on rusty bolts…the anchor clip is probably the crux – the holds end about 2 feet below the anchor so you basically need to dead-point clip the anchor, then lock-off and pull up rope and clip…well maybe next year right?
I did manage to scare myself up this really cool 5.10c trad route (on the Latvian Ledge) – Fastball? Or something like that…Totally thought I was gonna die...but whatever right? If you’re not scared – its not a trad climb? I need to get back into tard shape – I was feeling pretty good last season…
The bugs here….are….reallllllly…bad!

Day 6:
Today was more of a “mellow” day – at least we didn’t try anything harder than 11a – though we did try, but fail miserably to find “Katrina and the Wave” – after a nastyish bushwhack and a bunch of arêtes that all looked the same (and we didn’t seen any bolts), we headed back to past the Latvian Ledge to do a line that caught my eye several days ago – we rappelled in and did “Lady Slipper” 5.10a which was probably the best pitch we’ve done so far – then we did the companion line (mind you it took me three goes) – “Magica Moment” 5.11a. I didn’t expect to do anything hard so I only brought my “one-size big/comfy/smear shoes” to the rappel ledge…oh well…you got hosed tommy…you got hosed…
..I’ve come to realize that I am a very smear oriented climber – and well…smearing on blank limestone walls doesn’t cut it like it does on sandstone…I really need to work on my edging…I just always default to smearing when I can…We finished up by doing “Skunks Do It In Tevas” 5.9 – a high quality, variety climb with two mono moves….it was really cool. Looks like two more climbing days – and so far – NO RAIN…did I just curse myself? We shall see…
We’ve been hitting the Lion’s Head Inn every night for dinner…the food is…well pretty good – a big pricey- but I guess you get what you pay for – especially in Canada…

Day 7
You know is gonna be a tough day when its 10:00 am and you’ve already taken your daily max of Ibuprofen…
Totally hosed us – it rained today. We got exactly as low of an elevation from the car as possible when the storm hit – we went into the boulder field at Half Way Dump only to get totally dumped on…well that’s life I guess right? So we went driving around a bit – and found this really really nice, warm beach on the other side…of course it was raining… jumped in anyways…the water was actually warm…and nice – of course it was freezing so I got out pretty quick and high-tailed it…
We’re not sure but if it rains again tomorrow, we may be pissing on the fire and calling in the dog and heading to a boulder/climbing area in PA called the Allegheny Nation Forest (ANF.) – not sure yet…
We drove up to Tobermory today – it was…well…it was nice. There were trees. And some roads…and I think we saw a few rocks. We got out at this visitors center and Bob got to see what a Fisher looked like “oh and a biiiiiig bear too”. I just waited in the parking lot. I used his phone and saw a picture of a Fisher too. Of course – all these photos of this gorgeous blond popped up too. Go figure. Try doing a Google image search for a “Fisher.”

One thing that I’ve noted here on the Bruce Peninsula is the people – they’re really nice and cool – I think every night at the Lion’s Head – we chit-chatted with locals – the waitresses – other patrons – we even had two people stop by our campsite to talk to us. Super rad…

Day 8 (The day that the music died):

Coopers Rock Guidebook...

2010-07-16T08:33:00.001-07:00

Its funny - I just bought a Coopers Rock guidebook on Amazon - it was actually cheaper (including shipping) than I can buy it from the publisher myself....funny right?

Day 2 and Day 3 at Lion's Head...

2010-07-16T03:48:00.000-07:00

Day 2:
We did Lion’s Head proper today – you know – I’m starting to see a theme around here (other than limestone and pockets) – freaking long and heinous hikes! At least there aren’t any hills…but man – they’re really long!!! – especially when carrying the camera…
We did a handful of pitches today – including two really good moderate warm-ups, a decent 11b (that felt easy) and I put two burns into this HEINOUS 5.12a called Busted at Bedford. The 2nd burn, I made it through the crux, but was just too scary to clip the darned draw! I think if I get back on this one – I’m gonna hang a dyneema from the bolt and clip mix crux instead of trying to clip off of good hands and no feet.
The climbing at Lion’s Head was on the “blue” limestone, though the nature of the routes, the movement and the sketchy bolting was very reminiscent of climbing on Endless Wall at the New River Gorge…We saw this really cool crack climb – I think we’re gonna come back and do it (and maybe hopefully send that darned 12a)
I snapped a few images today – once the sun came over, the lighting was just exquisite. After loping back (more like staggering the way my feet were feeling), we did Dinner for the 2nd night in a row at the Lion’s Head Inn.

Day 3:
“We were pondering how many ‘Toonies ’ it would take at the local brothel to figure out what a ‘Rusty Blackbird’ (V5) was, but later learned they named the problems after the Flora and Fauna in the park.”
Has it really only been three days? I’m feeling totally whooped – I guess that we’re calling today a rest day anyways – but not really – we went bouldering at this place called “Half Way Dump” or “the Dump” – the bouldering was pretty good – though limestone (I was hoping for granite – but you can’t always get what you want…)
I basically got my butt kicked – though I’m totally blaming “day 3 in-a-row” – my guns were just thrashed and I kept falling any time I needed to call in the reserves. I did do a handful of V3s that were quite good.

Lion's Head Part 1!

2010-07-15T04:29:00.001-07:00

I typed a trip report while at Lion's Head - I'm gonna post it in parts....
I'm holding photos hoping to get an article in DPM

Day 0:
…was basically that – Day 0 – driving….about 8 or 9 hours of it with stops from Pittsburgh, to the campsite which is - what – not at Lion’s Head – yeah that’s right – Cape Croker. It was fairly expensive here - $100 CAD for a week – I guess all said in done that’s not terrible though.

There was a lot of cool things on the way up – though I drove the whole way and just wasn’t into the “take photos of things” mood – though I will probably try and shoot all the goodies on the way back – granted – all the cool stuff was in Canada – like the Wind-mill farms….We saw a place that had an “anti-wind energy sign” – I think I’m gonna write a separate satire against wind energy…that sounds fun?

I had threatened to be sassy to the border guard – to basically tell him to piss off – I’m an American and could go wherever I wanted – but I ended up being more like – ummm yyyes sssssir….nnooo nooo sir….West ViiiVirginia Sir….tthhhthahhank you sir.
Last night = we hiked up to the climbing at Cape Croker, though I think that we are seriously lacking for a guidebook to the area – the area was cool, with some good looking lines, but short. The mosquitoes were in fact, really bad…I must have killed 30 or 40 of them – I’m glad that I brought my hoodie – to keep them off my face and arms.
Yesterday was “Canada Day” – I guess it celebrates the day that Canada fought and won it independence or something….I’m not sure what we’re up to today, though I think that we had mentioned doing White Bluff – since its in the sun for Bob and STEEEEEEP for me ☺

I warmed up this morning on the playground at the campground here – it really is quite nice, though really busy. I guess all the Canadians are really happy to celebrate the day that they fought for their independence…

Day 1:

Not a bad day – I did sorta get spanked though! We climbed at White Bluff – which actually has a pretty crappy and long hike – no seriously – it was long! Nice though – nice scenery, nice million and half million dollar houses that we walked by on the way.
The mosquitoes here really suck which is a bummer – but they’re not horrible horrible – no worse than WV during the worst time of year for them.

I did manage to onsite two 11s and a 5.8 – though totally got spanked (one hung) this really good route – They Live (5.12b) – pretty sketchy and pumpy – I fell the first go on it because my feet slipped (Limestone is tough!) and the second time I just pumped out – I’m hoping to send it next go or two – if we make it back there.

We drove around a good bit today – mostly being tourists. I went into the water -which was cooooooold but nice…just up to my knees – I knew better than to jump in jump in – I would have frozen my butt off!
I think that we’re gonna try and climb at Lion’s Head proper tomorrow…

Wedding and the Red River Gorge

2010-05-26T08:40:00.000-07:00

This weekend, I shot photos at Jeremy and Kim Shahan's wedding - definitely a nice and fun wedding =). Being in the area, I decided to boulder at Coopers Rock on Friday. Conditions were hot and moderately swarmy - though temps were DECENT. I ran around Roadside and did most of the easy classics - my power was quite good - though I was having trouble hanging onto the smaller holds (taking into account the greasy holds)

I had an enjoyable time in Clarksburg WV at the wedding, - then drove down the Red River Gorge in KY.

Temps were hot.....kinda nasty, really but then its training season right? I did a few new moderates - some classics actually - two at the "What About Bob" wall - No Sleep 'til Campton and Kentucky Flu - both 5 star five tens.

I was really disappointed with the Chicka Bonitta wall though - not only did we get moderately lost on the way - but I got on a "4 star" route - The Dude Abides - I was pretty beat up but still - the bolt job was just terrible - you either climbed the obvious holds and didn't clip the third bolt at all....or did a silly move...its just a bad bolt placement.....

and the first bolt was loose and came unscrewed on me while climbing it - I guess I was just being a Sally - but I didn't have much fun on that route.....

Bishop Guide

2010-05-19T13:02:00.001-07:00

I just got my hands on the new Bishop Guidebook by Wolverine Publishing.

Its amazing!! wow...I just can't believe how incredible it is.....the images are stunning - the problem descriptions are funny and straight forward.

I was really happy to get a handful of images in the guidebook as well - though I'm really missing that place now! I think I'm going to try and spend the month of November there. I'm not sure yet though. I've always been more of a sport climber.....

Iron Man Traverse (v4), Bishop, Ca

Been a while...

2010-05-19T12:55:00.000-07:00

Its been a while since I've posted - I guess I've just been a slacker! I've been climbing lots - though my training has totally been slacking - I'm really hoping to motivate myself here though!! Seriously - I need to run and do some abs if I'm going to climb 5.13 this season? Not counting all the upgrades in the New NRG guidebook, I'm up to 190 5.12s - 10 more to go before my goal of 200 and my entrance into trying 5.13s.

We've been fairly busy at the Meadow - developing a handful of areas. I think that some are cursing my name since I bolted a handful of moderate lines at Area 51. "Free Range Show Poodle" at 5.8 is really good, long and almost completely clean, though all the others need considerable brushing and/or traffic - which I mean to do on a follow up trip. Two weeks ago I sent "Natural Regressions 5.12b?" which is about 20 feet left of "Natural Progressions" - it starts with a difficult (V5?) boulder problem and then goes a good ways until a final "Slab" V4 crux. I originally bolted this line as an "easier way to the top" to shoot photos of steep routes there.

Bill Bauer has been working hard on the "Feed Lot" an area we aren't yet disclosing the location - though most of the "Good" lines have been bolted at least, but some of the proudest (and hardest) lines are yet to be sent. Zak Roper sent "Wilson" 12b/c though two weekends ago.

Zak Roper and I went hiking a couple weekends ago and found a completely undeveloped and amazing crag - though we need to figure out hiking access....also - I think I may have found a handful of new crags (though the rock quality may be questionable) - stay posted though.

Here's an image of Zak Roper on "Sacrificial Lamb Direct (5.12b)" at the Feed Lot.

The New...then the red...

2010-04-26T12:20:00.000-07:00

This was a good 3 day weekend - on Friday, I spent half the day drilling two new routes at the Meadow - they actually ended up being moderates....quite good too - and long(ish).

Then Bill met me at the Meadow and we sent those two + another one that I had drilled, but didn't get to try the week before.

Friday night, I drove to the red. Though it rained, it didn't impede on the climbing at all - though I woke up sat night to a waterbed - it was crazy - my tent area flooded out - but the tent was good enough that it didn't leak through. I moved the tent regardless, and have a good nights rest after a heinous lighting storm.

I was really psyched to one-hang my project - Harvest. I made it to the almost full rest (past all the hard stuff) - only to pump out on the ?11+ portion.....I think that it will go down very soon.

I climbed several new routes at Drive-By as well - well..two - Slick and the 9mm and Yada Yada Yada - the latter being quite good....

Some New routes....

2010-04-14T09:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday - Bill finally connected the dots for "Final Twilight" at Cotton Top - I had been scoping the line for a couple years now and was hoping it would be a moderate...nope.....probably not a single move on it easier than 11- - well that's how it goes.

Final Twilight (5.12b/c) - starts about 10 feet left of "Cottonhead" and follows 3 bolts through techy and thin face. A committing move to the anchors highlights the route - if you blow it - you're gonna fall (cleanly) most of the route - pretty awesome and Bill's best to date.

sticking with Bill's theme, (in names) I did a 1 bolt mixed route which I called - Breaking Dawn (5.9)

Hopefully we'll be back to business as usual Friday and Saturday at the NRG - I'm hoping to send another one of my bolted routes - a 12a at the Meadow - stay posted...

I've been climbing so much that...

2010-04-13T07:46:00.000-07:00

I've been climbing so much that I just don't have enough time to train!! darnit! well - life has been quite good in the Danno climbing world.

I submitted four photos and one video the the Morgantown local BAMFF. I also submitted a video - the Coopers Rock Video which was on the DPM site a while ago.

I was really bummed out that none of the kids like the video that I did for the JIBS bouldering series - I was going for "sports action" but I think some of the kids were upset because there were a lot of falls and not enough sends.

I've been doing the red a lot - and have been working my respective projects there - getting closer on a few...and feeling stronger. The Red River Gorge is a great place to gain some fitness, though my power has been waining - Bill and I have been working a project at the NRG - its probably 12c or maybe a hard b - and I just can't bare down and lock off on the crimpers! Well - we'll let you know where it is and details once Bill sends it (which will likely be tomorrow after work)

I haven't been shooting TOO many photos lately, though, I've been focusing on my climbing (and the scenery has been dreary) - but now that the trees are out again - I'll start shooting some more.

I shop some photos a few weekends ago (see attached)

I love this time of year....

Some new routes...

2010-04-08T07:28:00.000-07:00

Once again, Bill and I climbed at the "destination not under discussion until we're done" crag.

Bill is really close on his project - Final Twilight (12b) - and keeping with his naming theme, last night I sent:

Breaking Dawn (5.9) - a 1 bolt mixed route.

I'm heading to the red again this weekend - I've been going to the red a lot these days.........

Not a bad weekend

2010-04-06T12:01:00.001-07:00

It being Easter, I visited the family in Pittsburgh - though I day tripped the Red River Gorge Friday - man - its funny - working hard routes really beats the heck out of one....I've been working "Harvest" and its just beating the crap out of me.

Saturday - I met a crew of peeps at McConnells Mill, which was my home crag growing up. As a kid - I remember trying this route "Mini Ovest" aka Peter Pan (5.11d) a severally overhanging top-rope route (all the routes at the Mills are top-rope routes) - its more like 12a or 12b - but who's counting right?

I was feeling pretty beat from the Red the previous day and was getting shut down on the boulder problems (though I did several V4s that I have life-time wired).

Yesterday, Bill and I went to some crag at the New to work a project we drilled last week - its pretty hard - I couldn't do the second crux move, though Bill is really close on it - I think that he's going to send it tomorrow (we're going again after work.)

Its pretty hot though this time of year! and the bugs are a major bummer - but that's life.

I haven't been training lately, and I think that I've been eating too much - though not a major deal - I haven't been training - all this climbing is getting in the way!!!

Some New routes...

2010-04-01T03:44:00.000-07:00

I've been fairly reticent on my blog - though mostly because I don't want to divulge key information.

We (Bill and I) bolted 3 new routes at crags which we won't mention until we send the routes (I'm worried about people poaching routes)

Last night was a horror show - you know those little green briar things? Yeah - those things, well they suck big time - especially when one is wearing shorts.

I'm day tripping the red tomorrow - then heading home to see the fam, but Bill and I are hoping to climb after work next week and start working our respective routes....

I've been running

2010-03-17T11:34:00.000-07:00

Well - its that time of the season again - though OH CRAP I need to lose weight for the spring season...and I've been running - I ran for three weeks in Jan/Feb then it got really bad outside, and I took a break, but I'm back to it now.

I have this really awesome GPS watch that I mentioned in a previous post.

Here's some of the data from it:

Oh and if you're a runner you'll know that I'm a crappy runner - but it helps me to lose weight for climbing....

The Philly Rock Gym Junior Invitation Bouldering Series or PRG JIBS

2010-03-16T03:52:00.000-07:00

Last weekend, I was in Philly, videoing the PRG JIBS comp - totally a rad comp - the Philly Rock Gym (both of the gyms) are awesome - I was totally psyched and really wished we had a gym (like that or any) here in Charleston.

I think my running quote of the weekend was "God willing and the creek don't rise" - and it did, but it didn't rise the extra foot and a half it needed to overtake the only bridge into the gym.

I've been working my butt off lately on the video for the comp, hoping to have it done soon.

I've been training - my weekend two weekends ago at the red was good motivation - I've been running - and fairly hard.

I got a GPS watch - which is really really cool - it gives you your real time speed, distance, pace,all that good stuff + you can hook it up to your computer and it shows your paths and keeps track of your distances and stuff - it was like $150 or so on Amazon and totally worth it! (Garmin Forerunner 305)

I've also been training in my basement gym (which Dave built - nice one dude) - I'm really hoping to make some headway on my two projects this weekend at the red (Cell Block 6 and Heart Shaped Box)

-Danno

The Red......

2010-03-09T04:08:00.000-08:00

The red this weekend was totally rad! About time - the weather up until now had been just down right dreadful. It was sunny, but cold, which means that its cold in the shade, but hot in the sun - not that I'm really complaining, but rather stating the fact.

The thing about Miguel's Pizza Shop (THE hangout place at the red) is that it changes, every year - just a little bit (and some years more) - so its interesting to see all the new seasonal nuances. Its nice that there is amply bathroom space there now and the sinks are inside - sweet!

I love that place and I miss living there....but my 4 day a week J-O-B is a pretty good deal.

I basically got my butt kicked on everything - and it was funny - I knew that I would be scared on lead - it happens ever year - after bouldering - I get nervous when taking big falls - so I didn't go all the way to the chains on Tuna Town before jumping (though I did all the hard moves on it.)

I did skip the last bolt on "Cell Block 6" at the Surf and jump almost from the anchors - that was a fun one.

I was working and there was a this cool french dude there (who I met last season) - well - I grabbed the draw as I did the move and was like "That's French style right?"

Well...after hanging I did the next session, just barely, my feet cut, I grabbed the draw clipped screaming and then said take take take ! and he goes "So that's American style then?" It was really funny.

Here's a photo of me with the Pope, the Lead Singer from U2 and the Dahl Lama. Er well - close enough.

Pittsburgh...

2010-03-01T07:32:00.001-08:00

Last weekend I went home to Pittsburgh to hang out with my family and some friends - I climbed at Climb North Sat and The Climbing Wall Inc sunday.

I'm trying to figure out what I can train outdoors so I can be better at gym climbing? I was thinking - since my main issue with the gym is the colors - would be to use duct tape on outdoors problems so I can get use to only using specific holds....

Chatta-didn'trainthistime-anooga

2010-02-21T16:46:00.000-08:00

The weather this weekend was spetacular - 50s and sunny - a stark contrast of my past 4 - yes 4 trips to Chattanooga. Last weekend, there was a foot of snow on the ground at HP40 - A FOOT! Seriously....

But this weekend was just perfect.

My skin was feeling pretty pathetic though - like the first problem felt like the end of the day...and toda - my fingers were really hurting me.

I started by repeating a bunch of things that I've already done - then I did a few new problems - with my general goal being doing some new V4s and V5s and find a good V6 or V7 to project....

I was really psyched to 3rd go (essentially a 2nd go from a foot bobble at the start 2nd go) Ghengis Kahn (V5) - I think the V4 to the left of it - Black Carpet was probably harder at first, then I figured out the sequence and did it twice - its really good.

I repeated Tri-Star (V4) and Dragon Lady (V4) both fairly easily - first go on Tri-star and like maybe 4th or 5th go on Dragon Lady (my feet kept slipping).

Then I started working Crack of Doom (V4) which I cannot believe use to be V6!!! Its basically a finger crack boulder problem - maybe 20 feet? tall - the crux is a ratly finger lock (or you can press out on bad sloper) - I got it pretty wired and did it several times. If it were on a trad route, I'd say it would probably go at 11b/c.

Its really good though! and the topout - is SCARY.

I ran into some cool cats yesterday and today - and got some photos (though I'll probably hold them and see if I can sell them)

I did this problem - Pocket Pool (V3) which I swear was harder than Crack of Doom! maybe it just didn't fit me - I don't know.

I'm going to head out again tomorrow morning early - tentatively shoot photos of Ashley Hamilton on Midway (V7).

I'm really trying to like not justify having a day job - but its such a sweet gig - its really hard to beat it - I get 3 day weekends every weekend, lots of vacation time.....

I was talking to my friend Bob on the phone and am thinking about maybe doing a 3 or 4 dayer at the gunks once that place is in season.

I have some good images but am going to hold them I think a bit...stay posted...

-Danno

I feel sooooo lazy!

2010-02-18T10:32:00.000-08:00

Darn - it I feel so crappy - i haven't really gotten to climb outside in a really long time !! this winter is killing me - I'm trying to decide if i want to dive to Chattanooga this weekend again. I got snowed/rained out four times already but I just can't stand not bouldering!

Its either that or like drive up to Pittsburgh (Closest gym) to get some training in!!!!

.... ugh!

Climbers are Selfish....

2010-02-18T10:25:00.000-08:00

I am - I'm totally selfish. Last night, my friend Bill and I were talking about the latest crag. If you follow my facebook, I've been calling it the "40" foot slab...that I'm going to grid bolt. Well - its starts with 40 feet of slab....

But Bill was like "Save some routes for me, I want to bolt some" and I was like "Well...I'll just have to make sure I get all the ones I want first =)"

Am I being selfish - of course I am - I got bored of doing routes at the New River Gorge proper - sending just about every route that I can do (I only climb like mid to easy 12) - so well....I got bored...so I started turning to the Meadow where the potential for new routes is incredible.

There are at least 3 more "crags" left out there almost completely untouched that are left out of the new guidebook - and another 2 crags which are "mostly developed, but not sent" and "half-way developed".

So I'll be focusing the next few seasons on establishing routes here.

Developing routes is a lot of freaking work and expensive - but I like punishment + I think it gets me into shape...anyways - stay posted....Once we finish up at the "High Density Feed Lot" and Sam gives me the go-ahead on the "Congo" we'll post those guides.

I'm sure with the New NRG book by Wolverine hitting the shelves presently, the masses will have a bunch to keep them busy.

WORD

Chatta-always raining-nooga

2010-02-16T13:27:00.000-08:00

SO this makes 0/4 for me on Chattanooga....Armed with the new guide to HP40 - I was pretty psyched, though when we got there - there was about a foot of snow on the ground.

Total hose job...so we ended up climbing in the gym two days....

Getting a Wii?

2010-02-11T04:46:00.000-08:00

So one of my friends put some pressure on me to get a Wii - yeah - they're only 200 bucks (and he's going to put in 100) - but that means I need to get a TV too - which is about 1000 and a TV stand...this is all fine and dandy - I really don't have that much time at home though......hmmm....

Life is full or hard decisions...like Nikon just released the 24mm F1.4 - SUPER sweet - not only a superb wedding lens, but climbing too.....no seriously - I'm really psyched about it - but its 2200....and the price won't drop. Ever....

Gooooooo Ipod

2010-02-10T06:57:00.000-08:00

So I got a new Ipod this christmas - well Ipods are basically hard drives - and the thing with hard drives is that - if the drive is going to fail- its probably going to fail in the first few months - and if it doesn't, then it will probably last for 5 - 10 years (etc)

Well - My new Ipod crapped out on me - so I logged on to Apple and - they're sending me a brand new one - I didn't even have to pay shipping or anything - they gave me a slip - I went to a UPS and the UPS guy already knew I was coming - I just gave him my IPOD and that was it....

I wonder how fast the turn-around time will be.

Photo from the Apple Site....

A good idea......

2010-02-09T05:08:00.001-08:00

Well - I had this brilliant Idea - I got this little self-powered portable hard drive for my laptop for my music..well....I got some Velcro stickers and just stuck the thing to the back of my laptop with Velcro - its awesome - it stays out of the way, stays connected, doesn't get jacked......wow....even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes huh?

I am getting really really psyched for HP40 this weekend. I didn't get to train yesterday - I ended up just playing video games all night - I'm justifying this by saying that I needed a rest day.....

HP40 Guide = = AWESOME!

2010-02-08T13:26:00.000-08:00

I just go a copy of the HP-40 guide by GreenerGrass Publishing, written by Adam Henry. Its about time someone put out a guide to this place, but all the years of waiting has been worth it - they definitely did the place justice. Its full color - and awesome.

If you're worried about the "grades" - man - your in the wrong sport - and I have a box of tissues for your teary eyes.

One thing that I like in a bouldering guide is "userability" and with a plethora of topo maps, you are definitely going to have no doubts when it comes to finding the specific name and grade of the V2 that you're not going to be able to do.

The Maps themselves look great and are comparable to a work of art. All in all - SWEEEET!

You can pre-order them now or check them out on the Publisher's website:

http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com/guidebooks/

Been a While...

2010-02-08T11:00:00.000-08:00

Its been a while since I've posted - I guess it was that I didn't want to admit to myself that I'm back to having a steady job - its funny - I think that my training and climbing is more consistent now that I have job to sit down at four times a week.

I've been at "classes" for the past month learning and getting certifications for my job (bridge engineering job) - but have been running and training - mostly abs, but now that our basement homewall is awesome (45 degree) - I am planning on some bouldering training as well.

Matt Fanning, Katherine Pabody and I have done several trips to Chattanooga this winter, with mixed weather/results.

I'm doing a 4 dayer this weekend to HP-40

The new guidebook is awesome and I was quite happy and lucky to snag one of the 40 "pre-release" books. I managed to score three images in the book. There's a photo of me on "Pop-eye" so I guess I need to go and send that problem huh?

I'll make a point of updating my blog now that I have come to turns with "being back in a real life" again.

Oh - and we've been just as busy as ever establishing new routes at the Meadow - Once we get most of the routes sent - I'll post the PDFs...

23 degrees at Coopers Rocks...

2009-12-07T04:08:00.000-08:00

At least, that's what Lena's car said - but it was sunny.

If it were any warmer, the snow on top of all the boulders would have melted and the problems would have been wet, but it didn't and they weren't.....

One thing I learned yesterday - you need SOME moisture for good friction - the friction was actually terrible - the chalk wouldn't even stick to my fingers - it was crazy!

Making holds again...

2009-12-04T07:38:00.001-08:00

So - I've been hanging out in Pittsburgh for the past week and will be here for another week, before heading on a four day trip with Matt - to who knows where - then to Charleston for the winter season.

I've started making climbing holds again.

The motivation came from climbing at Climb North here in North Park, Pittsburgh.

I bought some pottery clay at the craft store. Now - the mold is the hardest part.

I got a request from Bob for a type of hold that I've made before. So I made a cast out of clay (though this one is a big more positive than the requested hold) - and I used All Purpose Silicon.

To get the viscosity down, I boiled it (in its tube) - it took a whole tube for one mold - and its tough to not get air bubbles.

Its "drying" right now - I'll let you'all know how it turns out and if it works, I'll make another hold (using my other tube of Silicon) - if both of those turn out, I'll get some expoxy resin and color sand and go from there!

Now - to get a really GOOD mold - you need to get a $100.00 per gallon rubber molding...if I get my hold thing going again - I'll start using that and go big time with it.

I've been thinking about several cool hold ideas....

Stay posted =)

A day at the New with Matt...

2009-11-26T05:36:00.000-08:00

Matt, his friend Paul, Ryan and I did a day at the Meadow - at Area 51 and the Pebble...what a day! It was PEEEERfect - like maybe mid 50s and cloudy....I was feeling pretty good about my day - I warmed up on one of the 10s, then managed to do Sam's 12a/b (If You Lick It, They Will Come) second go - a good route - I managed to trundle a laptop sized block out of it though! Its a good route - for sure.

Then we went to the Pebble where I onsited Gray Goose (12b) - though I hear eddie said he thought it was more like 11d - I can't really tell since I've been away from the new for so long.

I did "Brown Star" second go - a 12a - I totally missed a dead-point at the crux on the onsite, pulled the rope, no rest and then did it (though I was really really close to pumping out on it!)

Matt did really well - as well - doing almost all the moves on "One for the Gipper" (13b/c?) - He was really really close to sticking the crux dyno and basically hiked the lower crux (bolt to bolt)

Some Lilly Video

2009-11-23T04:20:00.000-08:00

So we rolled into the Obed late Friday night - as we roll in - there's two dudes (Hunter and Tom) getting ready to go bouldering - a night session with lanters....we couldn't turn down filming that! Stay posted ! We filmed several problems - including Laurel Arete, Long Arm of the Law, Take that Kelly Brown and Some jump (next to Laurel arete...)

Heading back to WV today!

Been a While

2009-11-22T17:41:00.000-08:00

Its been a while since I've posted, just been climbing a lot - this weekend, we did a two dayer at the OBED which ended up just being a one-dayer for me - just hanging out - causing trouble, you know all the good stuff.....I managed to do 2 new 12s....so that means I only have 18 more 12s to do until I don't have an excuse (I vowed not to seriously try 5.13 until I've done 200 5.12s.....)

Back at the red tonight - my last night here - then heading to WV - gonna climb at the New Weds - then Pitts with the fam (and bouldering friday I think at Coopers Rock...)

not a bad day...

2009-11-13T17:49:00.000-08:00

we climbed at the PMRP today - which is one of them there new crags - at the Red River Gorge - pretty rad - we warmed up at the playground - then I was really psyched to onsite the route - that like everyone onsites (I had to try pretty hard for it darnit!) - Far From God (12b) - yay go Dan.

Been a while since I've onsited a 12b - not counting the stuff at Jackson's Canyon of course. You know - I don't think I've ever onsited 12b at the New River Gorge - infact, I don't know if I've onsited 12a there.....

Another Creek Shot...

2009-11-11T08:01:00.001-08:00

and a day at the new...

2009-11-11T06:52:00.001-08:00

having been creeking for a week - i figured i'd get on all those old intimidating trad routes at the new that I've never been on.

did

Smooth Operator (off-width)

Bio Hazard (crux at the top - sweet)

Diversity in Microcosm (not R and not 5.9 - more like 5.7)

Wall Street...

2009-11-10T08:38:00.000-08:00

so my overview of Moab

2009-11-10T06:12:00.000-08:00

Moab is sweet - no other way to say it - the camping is free - in the desert; over aminities (except a sketchy porta potty) - not even water, but you just drive the hour into moab, stock up - and you're set - that's camping at Indian Creek....which is awesome!

Its basically just a bunch of splitter - perfect cracks - with sometimes roofs and features and that sort of thing...

So a lot of times - you need like 8 number 2 BDs...its crazy like that.

Moab itself is a cool little town - mormon, but not giving in without a fight. The downtown library is great - and they have a bunch of cool audio books!

Wall Street - belaying off your bumper - is where good routes go to die...the rock is pretty bad...like its cool to climb, its just scary to fall on....

If you're going to the creek - and are not a crack climber, you're gonna need a lot of rest days - my quads and ankles hurt from putting them in cracks...seriously...its like you got down wrestling a bear when you get off a route!

Its crazy - the desert, you just don't feel like you're on earth. You don't believe that something like that exists on the earth....its rad....

Here's a vertical from Two Bag Face...

2009-11-04T17:14:00.000-08:00

Rest Day - oops...yeah Wall Street

2009-11-04T16:54:00.000-08:00

So I was totally on my way to taking another rest day when Phil and Jessica showed up at the Library.

We did Wall-Street - which is like....well - the sport park of moab minus the grid bolting. Its NO JOKE belay off your bumper - really cool though! Good routes, but scary gear placements...its really really soft sandstone.

Managed to bag a new 12a - it was hard though.....

Freaking A - hard boulder problems hrmphhh.....

Back to the creek tomorrow

Unpack and Re-pack

2009-11-03T16:54:00.000-08:00

how much stuff CAN you fit into a Honda Civic? the world may never know....

OK - the Creek...yeah....!!

2009-11-03T11:13:00.000-08:00

So - here at Indian Creek - I feel like a total gumbie....I've basically been getting ripped a new one - this jamming thing is super rough....I may be kinda getting it - I don't know though. But we climbed two days.

Unfortunately, the guidebook does not describe approaches - and is inaccurate on gear beta. For example, on Mr. Peanut, the guidebook says 8 1" pieces, when you get to the beginning of the book - you convert 1" to 0.75, so I bring 6 0.75" and and um well two 0.5s...of course, I needed 0.5s. I ended up throwing a wobbler.....ran it out on a crappy 0.4 BD...a bit - then managed to overcam the crap out of a 0.75...and then managed to get some smaller gear (that was actually good) to the anchors.

Of course - that route at 11- felt easier than Chocolate Corner (5.9).

The first day, I tried Desert Moon - which absolutely kicked my butt....after the opening crux, from 30 feet to 130 feet - it was totally just slogging....omg....it was nuts...its not like you can actually fall out of the jams, but you just give up because you don't have anything left in you...its rough...

Oh - we did "Tom Cat" too...that was cool - it was my first route of the Creek (not counting that other time I was there.) - more slogging and jams.....pretty cool. I had to run that one out too. Dropped a #3 BD...that I needed for the top - I just stacked to #4 BDs and ran it thirty feet to the chains - once again - its not like you can actually fall out of it...you just give up whhen you can't stand the slogging anymore....

Today is my rest day - just chilling in Moab - two more days of slogging =)

So what is Moab you ask?

2009-10-31T12:54:00.000-07:00

Well. There are two main types of rock climbing - those were you clip pre-placed drilled bolt anchors - and those that follow crack systems where you bring your "gear" with you as you go - placing caming devices into cracks.

Moab is pretty much THE mecca for the latter type of climbing - Traditional climbing - or in short, Trad climbing where you bring your own gear with you as you climb cracks.

The rock here is Sandstone, though QUITE soft desert sandstone - at least compared to the likes of the New River and Red River Gorge. The cracks are just perfect however. Almost always perfectly parallel and just plain spectacular!

I'm here for a week, then I'm off to the HP40 competition in Alabama.

Over the Mountains and Through the Desert...

2009-10-31T12:51:00.000-07:00

to Moab I go!

And the library here is the best I've ever been to - here I sit - blogging, working on photos, playing my mud game - and importing two new audio books - Dune Messiah and Dune Battle of Corrin...and after that maybe 1984.

I drove through the mountains over I-70 - it was definitely scary in spots! But made it - I went slow....and listened to the Harry Potter Book 7 audio book. Good stuff man...

I am soooooo incredibly psyched for MOAB!

The temperature here is PERFECT - cool, but sunny....perfect!

Here's a photo from pack in Denver - Kristen's dog Rigby.

The Spot...in Boulder

2009-10-31T12:33:00.001-07:00

All my life...well ok maybe not - I've heard about the Spot in Boulder. This "legendary" gym - huge - spectacular.

It was cool - and any negative praise I may mention here is a minuscule and scrupulous banter. The place is truly awesome, regardless of my negative comments.

My first impression was - wow. This place is really small....there's two free standing boulders. and like 3 walls - one of them really steep.

I envisioned the place the be A LOT bigger! The problems were cool - and one thing that I'd like to note is that there are a BUNCH of moderate problems - which is cool and good for warm-up.

The topouts were cool. The problems - some were unique and afforded good movement and tricky beta. It just...well...wasn't as cool as I thought that it would have been. Really - it just WASN'T big enough....

I really wish it would have been bigger - maybe 4 pillars instead of two....anyways...still kinda cool.

Snow?????WHAT???

2009-10-28T18:20:00.001-07:00

OK.

SO I made it to Colorado, and i get here and what do I find? IT snowed and is snowing....there's some "chain" law to get to Moab through the mountains....I'm hoping to check out the climbing gym here tomorrow - not sure...or maybe I'll check out the Spot....I would like to check that out.

Meeting Phil and Jess at Moab Sat =) (hopefully I can get there!)

my drive across Kansas.....

2009-10-28T07:04:00.000-07:00

Really - when you're going to colorado from ANYWHERE - its Kansas that blows....

yeah..

it sucks...

its long.

and its flat

and its straight

and its flat

Your major landmarks are that cornfield on the left. And that other corn field on the left.

I saw a few cows this morning.

The sunrise um.....over the cornfield was nice this morning too.

I was gonna walk into a hotel and get free breakfast this morning, but figured that I have this no interest credit card - i may as well use it....

and.....my omlet is almost done....back to the road....

Random Newbie Crag Story...

2009-10-27T05:27:00.000-07:00

oK...so there I was - in the midst of the "beginner" crag a really cool group of people..just hanging out - there were several 5.8s that I hadn't done and wanted to do and Allison wanted to try some of the routes there to finish the day.

Well...there's like this ONE 11c there - and there was like a bunch of dudes and this group of two (arguably cute) females doing it. The one girl was doing it, though with some extremis...well;

All my life, I've been labeled/assumed to be a weak climber...I don't know why - but anyways - well - I walked up to her in my most awing voice I asked, "Wow, that looks really hard how is it?"

She replied almost condescendly, (still strutting a bit I might add) - "Oh...its 11c, fun, kinda easy". I was like, "Oh wow - nice job though! That was awesome!" my tone flawless.

See - I figured I'd limit myself so she could feel better about her self...Well...Allison, bless her heart goes, "Um Dan, didn't you onsite this entire wall?"

Mentally i was like "Doh!" - the girl gave me a weird look, I kinda looked awkward and walked away...muttering something like ALLISON!

maybe you had to be there....

Some road tripping stuff....

2009-10-27T05:21:00.000-07:00

here's a few things to make that 19 hour drive through the night a little better...

1. Audio Book - A MUST!!!!

2. Lots of Caffeine (whether be in the soda or coffee format)

3. Munchies - the worst the better....

4. You don't need to buy something to use a restroom at a gas station - look for sheetz, they tend to have cleaner restrooms...

Heading to Utah....

2009-10-27T05:09:00.000-07:00

To quote the Smashing Pumpkins:

"The more you change the less you feel"

I've always thought of this in the sense that when we're little and we have so little in our bubble of life, things are simple, and we one thing changes, regardless of its magnitude, it changes a lot in our life.

But as we get older - not only do we get used to change, but our bubble gets, bigger. However, this is at a cost of sensitivity.

I've never liked to watch war movies - the biggest discernment being the casualty of death; the waste of life with somewhat indifference. Take for example, in "Saving Private Ryan" - where they're all running up the beach - a bunch of people get shot and the other soldiers don't even make a second glance...then they're sitting against a "dune" and the machine gun fire ripples across the top, one of the men killed by the bullets....once again, a seamless uncaring...

Anyways - yeah I'm off to Utah, I'm not jumping with excitement, I haven't planned the trip - I haven't even thought about what I need to bring, just my car, computer, camera, some cooking stuff - sleeping bag.....I figure I'll just figure it out when I get there....not even sure how to get where I'm going. Figure I'll follow signs for "Denver"

Da New...

2009-10-26T16:23:00.000-07:00

So my past two days consisted of bouldering at Coopers Rock with Joel and climbing at the New River Gorge.

I love this time of the year - when the colors pop...its amazing!

So my plan was to solo up my favorite route: Two Bag Face (5.9) at Fern Buttress - though I got halfway up - got scared and said SCREW IT and down climbed it!

Got some photos of Chris on it though....

SO RRG today and tomorrow - then OFF TO INDIAN CREEK!

-Danno

Engagement Photos

2009-10-24T17:20:00.000-07:00

Nothing beats fall colors =)

Here's an old one...

2009-10-23T19:38:00.000-07:00

Philly.

2009-10-23T14:23:00.000-07:00

So I left the red on Monday or so - stopping in Pittsburgh for the night. I spend two days in Philadelphia, checking out the gyms - pretty cool places - that's for sure...shot some gym photos...the first time I've shot indoor photos (with my lights)

Pretty cool - I was psyched - I totally sent the green problem! (and flashed the blue one!)

The scary woman...

2009-10-23T13:45:00.000-07:00

Ok so I'm in Morgantown for the weekend - long story short, I went into Adventure's Edge and noticed that several people were discussing the impending tree cutting to occur at Coopers Rock.

Well - of course, me being me, I had to express my opinion, saying that cutting trees is fine. I mean - what the forest burns naturally every 500 years or so - also, a mature forest doesn't hold as much wildlife as a timbered forest....

Well - this lady went nuts on me and the second that I realized that she was an extremist, I politely said that I was through with my conversation with her. Well, she didn't seem to be, and asked another question, which I politely dodged and then changed the subject.

Well she stormed out on me.

Good one Danno - you sure know how to keep you're trap shut - anyways...

Pulled a Photo out...

2009-10-18T18:38:00.000-07:00

Here's one that Bill shot of me last season, Soloing at Sunset Walls at Coopers Rock...

A day at Muir...

2009-10-17T17:09:00.000-07:00

We climbed today at Muir Valley, I did some really cool routes, including this one route: Rat Stew (5.10a)

I managed to 2nd go a 12a at the Sunny Side or something - it was called (checking book now) -

Suppress the Rage (12a) - I uh,, well could have gone left or right and I chose wrong the first time (but still almost did it.) - 'DOH

just a random one...

2009-10-16T17:03:00.000-07:00

just in case...

2009-10-16T16:52:00.000-07:00

my last one didn't offend anyone...

So what is the motherlode anyways?

2009-10-16T15:56:00.000-07:00

I figured that not everyone has been to the lode - so I'll talk about it..

Basically - "The Lode" consists of a few walls - The undertoe wall - which is short(er) - about 25? degree overhanging routes - lots of slopers and crimps, with jugs.

The wall gets progressively taller as you go left (actually the ground drops...)

On the far left is Leave it to Beavis (12d) and Tuna Town (5.12d) - Tuna Town is the classic endurance route. Its about 60? feet of say 11+ or 12- jugs to a rest (60 percent rest I'd say)

The next sequence is fairly hard - maybe a V3 or V4 with a clip in the middle to a rest jug that tend's to be wet (about a 70 or 80 percent rest).

Another hard - sequential boulder problem follows - the finishing move goes to what looks like a horizontal, but its a bumpy kinda crimper thing...you match that up then hit a "rest" jug - get a quick shake here, clip, heel hook and do a move to a really really good rest.

This rest is probably a 85 or 90 percent rest - with heal hooks - you can kinda get your wrist on the jug too...its really nice to rest on.

Then its a V3/V4 to the anchors.

You get maybe 5 good crimpers - then two crappy weird crimpers - there's not real edge on them - kinda bumpy...then you get a good "tooth" crimp - a jug crimp, then a sloper jug to the left of the anchors to clip.

Most people just jump here. You skip the first two clips on the route as a matter of course - to save your belayer (who gets pulled almost to the third) - then you take the 50 footer.

Its pretty casual when you're used to it.

Here's a shot of the undertoe wall - Elodie on Resurrection - a really bouldery 12c....

As you continue on, you hit the madness cave - which is just plain madness - no - its really really steep - its pretty much the reason that a lot of people come to the lode...

the routes grades are as follows (left to right) (not counting extensions)

14a, `13b, 13b, 14a, 13c, 13a - For a lot of the routes - you need a 70m rope - the madness cave essentially climbs a somewhat vertical (for the red) wall to a break - then the wall tips back to REALLY steep for a while - then rounds up to a headwall...here's a photo:

There is the GNC Wall (or something like that) - which has several god, classic routes, including 8-ball (12d), Snooker (13a), Cut Throat (13b?) and Thanatopsis (14b)...its baller...

There's some other walls, but they suck (not really - I'm just done typing)

couple days at the lode....

2009-10-16T15:49:00.000-07:00

I swear I'm the worst (male) climber at the lode - its humbling...basically people warm up on my project.

I don't care though - For me - success is determined by me trying as hard as i can on a route...

Sending a route is nice - which means I can move onto another route - and continue trying hard...but its not the motivation. If I never do Harvest - that's OK.

I'm happy with my progress on it - and its rad! I made it through the crux today on point.

The start is a hard boulder problem, the it eases off a bit - just techy balance stuff...with some cool rests.

Supposedly, the crux is a transition sequence from the one rib, to another, but that move - on my little check list of moves that I can piss on - it has a checkmark...

Ok maybe not...but still...

Its the move after that - which as been giving me trouble - its definitely a hard thrutch move for me...but I think I got that one doable...its hard - its where i fell...after that move is a really really good handle bar rest - which has been wet...

Then its a serious of hard boulder problems with OK rests to the anchors - the move TO the anchors is pretty hard - small edges (for he lode) - powerful....I bet I blow it there...

Sent my project...yay!

2009-10-13T15:46:00.001-07:00

So I finally did Tuna Town - it was rad - I spent like 15 minutes at the last rest and it went down fairly easily - go figure!

Allison Martyn - To Defy...

2009-10-12T17:53:00.000-07:00

To Defy the Laws of Tradition (5.10a), Left Flank, RRG

About time...

2009-10-12T17:14:00.001-07:00

I've finally sacked it up and did some good climbing...we went to curbside today - It had been a while since I've onsited 12a, but I managed to onsite two today - I swear the 11c that I did at the end of the day felt just as hard as those two 12s!

Rocktoberfest and Beyond...

2009-10-12T16:55:00.001-07:00

Last weekend was Rocktoberfest - the first time that I went to the event; I spent most of Saturday selling stuff for the RRGCC at the booth - and filming.

I managed to get SOME climbing in Sat morning heading to Left Flank; I got a good bit of climbing in yesterday at Eastern Sky Bridge - it was a bit hot for that place (I know! still hot!) - Eastern Sky Bridge, though, is a winter crag - because its basically in the sun all day.

I mostly did repeat routes, though I led a new trad route - the Underling. Its really cool. You climb up this dihedral, under a trash compactor roof. - then traverse under the roof.

It starts out with finger locks above you - and then opens all the way up to a BD #4. Then you crawl through this hole and belay...its pretty rad =).

Couple more days at the Red - not bad =)

2009-10-08T16:28:00.000-07:00

OK - so yesterday we did a Trad day - with Elena and Dustin - I managed to onsite Rebar, an 11a trad route....kind of onsite - i shot photos of it last year - but never felt any of the moves....anyways....I also did this really cool route called smoothie nut (10c) - it was spectacular - really cool less than 90 degree dihedral.

I got some more video teaser....

TRAD TEASER 2 from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

So climbing today???

2009-10-07T04:42:00.000-07:00

Its been two whole days since I've climbed - I really feel like I'm falling into a rut here...of not climbing...its crazy!

So I think that I may have a video gig - helping out a friend with a video job at a Heavy Metal concert....yah - ok lets count on my fingers how many heavy metal concerts I've been too...well if I do this one, it'll make exactly 1....

So I'm trying to decide - do I want to get a Mac Laptop or PC laptop....top of the line of course....life is so full of hard decisions.

Does anyone know when Mac releases their new line of Laptops?????

RRG Trad Teaser...

2009-10-05T15:51:00.001-07:00

Here's a teaser for my RRG trad video....

RRG Teaser Video from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

At the new - then back at the red!

2009-10-05T15:48:00.001-07:00

I went to the New River Gorge for the weekend - meeting Matt Fanning and crew.

Saturday was a Meadow day - Matt bolted a new link-up somewhere out in the woods somewhere.

I tried Made in the Shade, with new knee bar beta, but still couldn't do the move off the underclings....oh well....

Sunday - we climbed at Endless Wall - I went back to an old project of mine - Seeing Stars, a really good 11d arete route near the Fern Point Ladders.

Then we went to try Fall Line (12b) which Matt onsited - SUPER cool and very atypical for the NRG - more like a RRG route - the crux is basically a foot-cut dyno....then pumpy to anchors - kinda cool!

I headed back to the red today, and am here for a while!

Hoping to film more Trad climbing + I brought my Jib Arm back from Charleston...

Some Video Today....

2009-09-30T18:14:00.000-07:00

I took a rest day today and filmed this dude Kyle on two trad routes - Andromeda Strain and Synchronicity....looking good....

I managed to clip half of my nail today - it hurts a lot, but getting better (I HOPE!)

Not a bad day at the Lode....

2009-09-29T14:05:00.001-07:00

Climbed at the lode today - once again, the finger isn't the limiting factor...

Got my butt kicked again on Tuna Town, but I think it'll go....

1 finger down, but still pulling...

2009-09-28T15:22:00.000-07:00

Went to the lode today my finger hurts, but it wasn't the limiting factor.

I've been at the red for about two weeks; today was really the first NICE day that we've had, but we're looking to have a lot more of them so - life is good.

Here's a photo of my finger....

and of Lena, sending Chainsaw =)

I'm heading to the new this weekend - for like 4 days or so.

-Danno

Squashed my finger....'doh

2009-09-28T05:58:00.000-07:00

So I was working at the trail day on Saturday here at the red and squashed my finger - the nail is broken about half way - it really hurts and sucks. I tried to crimp really hard yesterday and it just hurt alot . 'DOH! I hope it heals soon...

Heading to the New River Gorge this weekend, I left a static rope on one of my cave routes - hopefully the mice didn't chew it - new to PC7 it...then it'll be good to go probably....I just need to sack it up and send it - its hard....probably ?12c? we shall see.....

Went to the gym in Cinci...

2009-09-25T09:13:00.000-07:00

So its been rainy and nasty here at the red for the past few days - so Liz and I decided to head up to Cinci and hit up "Climb Time" the gym there. - Its crazy how many strong ppl there were there....I figured half the people in the gym could send mid 13 here at the red....dudes were doing, in their flip flops, basically the hardest problems I could do there....

Its rainy today - but I'm beat - so gonna take a rest day. Tomorrow is the muir valley trail day. WORD

Kinda Rainy..but...

2009-09-21T07:35:00.001-07:00

Its been a great past 4 days in a row climbing =) - though it rained yesterday and looks like rain today - a perfect excuse to rest and chill - finish unpacking...rest the fingers and all that...

My website got hit by a virus - I'm not sure how - I haven't logged in or anything...go figure...hopefully I'll be able to get that up and running soon....

1st day at the red...

2009-09-17T18:24:00.000-07:00

Not a bad day today =) Elena and I went to the Darkside....after warming up on a couple short routes - we worked "The Force" which is really cool - definitely not what I've been climbing all summer =) but its cool - I'm hoping to project it - it'd be my first 12d at the red....

I got a new tent too - its not nearly as big as Gigatent - see last year - though its still be enough for my cot =)

Hanging out...

2009-09-15T12:55:00.000-07:00

Just been hanging out in Pittsburgh the past couple days - I needed a break for a while - going to the climbing gym now =)

-Danno

Zelda, 13a at the NRG

2009-09-13T06:16:00.000-07:00

Trip List for the Red...

2009-09-13T05:51:00.000-07:00

An FYI for those who are thinking about living at a climbing area for a while, I'll post my check list...

Tent (a big one) - walmart style
Tarps (one on the bottom, one over top since its a walmart tent)
Ropes (to tie up my upper tarp)
Sleeping Bags (two)
Cot (about 85 bucks online - these things are EXCELLENT!)
Futon - to put on the cot...STYLE baby...
Climbing Gear
CLothes
Books (you will get really bored - lots of books = = good)
Bolt Gun (You never know...)
Quilt and Sheeting (for the cot!)
Head Lamps (you need lots)
Cameras (gotta pay the bills...)

Roadside today..and then getting ready for a few months...

2009-09-13T05:50:00.001-07:00

So it looks like we're heading to Roadside today. I've done most of the routes there that I think that I'll ever be able to do...

Though I haven't done this route - Science Friction (12b) - I'm hopefully going to try it today...we'll see - it looks intimidating...

I'm heading back to WV tonight (and maybe Pittsburgh) - I'm going to gather my things for a month or two at the red =)

Not a bad day at the Red....

2009-09-12T19:17:00.001-07:00

Still hot, but I managed to send a new 12a - called Nicorette...it at Military - I have always been intimidated ... it looks really blank from the ground, but it gets 5 stars in the guide - well - it was in the shade - so we tried it today - SUPER cool =)

So my thing is - that I'm going to try and do 200 5.12s before I start trying to send a 13a...so as of today - I'm up to 170 - though I figure i'll jump a few more once the New River Gorge guide comes out - i think some of the newer routes are going to get bumped...we shall see.....

Hanging out at the Red

2009-09-11T04:40:00.000-07:00

I've been at the Red River Gorge in KY for the past few days - its been really nice here - a but hot, but nice none the less. Two days ago, we climbed a Phantasia - which has this REALLY steep line - Twinky - super cool =)...we tried Eastern Sky Bridge, but unfortunately, it was in the sun - so we got really hot on the stuff we tried there.

Yesterday, we climbed at Muir Valley - not too many routes, just a few. And then we went to Margarita night in Winchester. I'm not much of a drinker, so I was the DD - the benefits of which being that I ate for free - though all I had was fried Ice Cream - it was pretty good though =)

Not sure where we're going today....

Weekend at thet Meadow....

2009-08-31T09:06:00.000-07:00

About freaking time we got some cool weather!!!!!

Bill and I were at the Feed Lot again this weekend - it rained on us Sat - but not UNTIL we decided we wanted to start climbing - ugh! But we drilled 3 new routes - one cave route - one route with a 4 foot horizontal roof (and jug ledge over it- like a surfboard - really cool) and a techy vertical route with a sloper boulder problem finish.

We climbed yesterday - it was great! Nice and cool - almost perfect!

A really nice girl hooked me up - gave me a bag full of draws to use as fixed draws - and some cash for bolts - THANKS DANIELLE!!!

I'll give you'all more info when we finish the area and send all our projects =)

Some New Stuff...

2009-08-24T16:27:00.001-07:00

Two new routes at the "Feed Lot" - one I bolted for Bill for his birthday - probably about 12b - its long....maybe 60 feet or so....maybe 70...with some HARD boulder problems.
I bolted another line too - this really fairly steep, but intermitently feature white wall - its really cool.....stay posted =)
We stayed with John in his really cool cabin at the New - Totally what I want as a bachelor pad - just one room - basically a shed.....here are some photos...
I need to figure out where to put my big screen tv....

Visit the Fam - and the State Fair...

2009-08-24T16:00:00.000-07:00

I went home to see the family last week - it was rad =)

It was great to see Dad, my Grandpa, and my Grandma -

My grandfather in the 50s with a bunch of fiends built a hunting camp - and it was a nice camp - we grew up going to vacation there - well some jerk face burned it down, but we got insurance money - so we built a new one! Its not the same, but its really nice...

i went to the WV state fair on Friday with Jacqueline - totally made 30 bucks - if you pay the dude 10 bucks - you get to "try" the money route and if you do it - you make 50 bucks...so 10 bucks to get in - ten to climb - voila!

added a couple new routes at the Feed lot on Saturday with Bill - once we get that place up and going I'll post some route info - stay posted.

I started training this week - gonna train for the fall season - ran 20min today, did abs and pushups......